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Thunder 9 UC Pro sear spring orientation

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    Thunder 9 UC Pro sear spring orientation

    A pic of the sear spring from any Thunder 9 pro would be worth more than a thousand words.
    I removed everything but the hammer, safety/decocker and take-down lever for detail clean and Frog lube last Sunday. Got everything back together but the sear, failed to take a picture of this particular section prior to removing the pin. I can't figure out the sear springs orientation.

    I think a good pic can be had without removing the hammer strut, spring and grip catch.

    The meaning of life: To be happy and useful.

    #2
    Here's your thousand words, front view and rear view. The short end goes to the front and the long end to the rear----

    Bersa Sear spring rear.jpg Bersa Sear spring front.jpg

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      #3
      Much appreciated hboswell!! At least I know I have it correct orientation and haven't been spinning my wheels . The hangup is the anchor point for the long leg of the spring.,a tiny groove in the bottom of the ejector. It is proving impossible to get enough leverage to pull it in to place while pushing the sear into place to catch the pin and drop into its groove on the hammer at the same. Trying to manage all the opposing forces. Front of the sear wants to dive, the spring and pin side of the sear are pushing up and twisting from the spring tension. Would be breeze if the hammer and all the action parts were out of the way, no going down that road...today at least. Not to mention that this sear spring is giving 100 percent effort to launching itself into the black hole of disappeared springs.

      pin fail.jpg
      Last edited by Letereat; 08-26-2020, 09:26 PM.
      The meaning of life: To be happy and useful.

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        #4
        Just curious, do you have the mainspring out? If so, couldn't you install the pin from the right side of the frame through the sear with the long leg of the spring out of the groove to the right and then after installing the pin, lift the spring into the grove with a small screwdriver or punch?

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          #5
          Hahaha! I feel your pain. This is why every time I tear down a UC/HC Bersa I swear I'm never doing it again. Until next time and I do. Then I say REALLY never again. It's a horrible cycle. I need help.
          "The kindest, most sensitive guy on the entire internet."

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by PHMadness View Post
            Hahaha! I feel your pain. This is why every time I tear down a UC/HC Bersa I swear I'm never doing it again. Until next time and I do. Then I say REALLY never again. It's a horrible cycle. I need help.


            You definitely need help! From what I've read, 1911s must be 100X easier to detail strip than the UC9 & it only took 2 1911s to convince me!
            Think Green.......Recycle Congress

            Certified Armed Infidel

            Right Wing Extremist

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              #7
              Originally posted by PHMadness View Post
              Hahaha! I feel your pain. This is why every time I tear down a UC/HC Bersa I swear I'm never doing it again. Until next time and I do. Then I say REALLY never again. It's a horrible cycle. I need help.
              I declared numerous times to myself that I had no valid reason or any particular desire to strip the frame of my thunder 9 pro. Then one day the pins just start coming out....
              The meaning of life: To be happy and useful.

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                #8
                sear and spring thunder 9 pro grip side back.jpg
                Originally posted by hboswell View Post
                Just curious, do you have the mainspring out? If so, couldn't you install the pin from the right side of the frame through the sear with the long leg of the spring out of the groove to the right and then after installing the pin, lift the spring into the grove with a small screwdriver or punch?
                You mean the hammer spring and strut, oh yea, out. Trigger zip-tied to the back of the trigger to the guard, a plethora of hooks, modified screw drivers, punches, safety pins, 5x and 10x jewelers loops. I got it pinned in this morning on the "one last try" before work attempt. Crap, maybe its not "anchored" to the bottom of the ejector. How about the other side of the sear and spring, from the mag well. Friggen frame is looks like a cats scratching post now.
                I zoomed in on your picture of the sear spring, it looks like it is indeed resting in the tiny notch on the bottom of the ejector. Can you confirm? My spring is not resting in the notch, I thought it was, thus the sear is frozen solid and not engaging the hammer.,
                ​ ​​​
                Last edited by Letereat; 08-15-2020, 09:39 AM. Reason: add pic
                The meaning of life: To be happy and useful.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Yes, it is in the notch. You should be able to lift it into the notch with a small screwdriver or awl. Why the zip tie on the trigger?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by mitchr View Post



                    You definitely need help! From what I've read, 1911s must be 100X easier to detail strip than the UC9 & it only took 2 1911s to convince me!

                    This is one of those times i REALLY regret not listening to the little voice in my head, it strongly advised against removing the sear pin.

                    The meaning of life: To be happy and useful.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by hboswell View Post
                      Yes, it is in the notch. You should be able to lift it into the notch with a small screwdriver or awl. Why the zip tie on the trigger?
                      Thanks again for the assist. That confirms I am for certain moving in the right direction


                      yea your probably right, about getting in its notch but just to be positive, pop yours out of its notch and let it snap into the same narrow slot mine is in; then use your tool of choice to lift it back into the notch You mind shooting good quality video of that operation while your at it, 'll be waiting,....

                      all snarky comments aside. there are some barriers, in my personal experience, to getting that task accomplished.
                      1. can't pull it straight up, it is too long to clear the base of the ejector
                      2. the slot its wedged in, under the ejector but above the sear is uber narrow, not getting anything back there
                      3. the force resisting, in a directly proportional manner, the very thing you are trying to accomplish is aunt man and the tick super strong

                      its not just resisting being pulled up, but there is a lateral force pressing it to the side wall of the frame that is jamming up your efforts as well.

                      the sear has to be moved into position AND the long leg of the spring positioned in its notch with the pin out,

                      I know your up for the challenge, go ahead, take the hammer spring and strut out and push that sear pin right in outa its resting place, thats right, pick up the punch, forget about the hammer spring, liberate the sear pin from its bindings, it'll be okay

                      I am pretty close to being convinced that the hammer safety, hammer and all the associated parts are gonna have to come out.

                      I am gonna see if i can fashion some tiny tools first,

                      p.s. Oh, the zip tie. its just to keep the hammer loose, so it will fall back and be in position for the sear to rest on the single action ledge.
                      Last edited by Letereat; 08-11-2020, 09:09 PM. Reason: add a p.s.
                      The meaning of life: To be happy and useful.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Don't hold your breath on the video. I wasn't that thrilled about taking the grip off the second time and then popping out the mainspring. Took me four tries to get the darn thing back in. One of the main reasons I love the Bersa's is the easy take down to clean them and their solid construction. I have never gone beyond the basics and I have never had a problem which would require any additional disassembly. That being said, I just pulled the grip and mainspring again and I think I found your problem. It's the zip tie. The hammer must be all the way forward to give you clearance to lift the end of the spring into the slot. If that isn't the solution then I am at a loss because I am not jumping down the rabbit hole with you and pulling the pin. Oh how I wish all this was about a Ruger Mark ll. I have had over a dozen of those down to the frame for deep cleaning and installing Volquartsen parts over the last few years and I can re-assemble one in under 10 minutes. I'm including additional pictures of what I am looking at. Bersa hammer forward.jpg Bersa hammer down.jpg

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                          #13
                          The Zip tie, yes on a fully functional thunder 9 it would cause the hammer to remain upright, it would also still be under the tension of the hammer spring and trigger bar, However, with the hammer spring out, and the trigger pulled back to its stop, the hammer is "free floating", its under no tension at all. Zip tied trigger, all the way to the rear of the trigger guard + hammer spring and hammer strut removed = "free floating" hammer, move to any position you deem necessary with ease. It just makes it easier to manage with no spring tension and the trigger bar disengaged and out of the way.

                          I have come to the conclusion that the issue is that the spring and sear were never intended to be installed in the manner that I am attempting, I think It can probably be coaxed into position with just a bit more ingenuity. I have been chasing my tail after all to some degree. The most anxiety inducing result has been my near perfect frame finish now looks like a group of badgers has been on the loose. I Just have to ignore it and refinish it in the future. The more I think about it, I am convinced the correct order of events would be to have the safety bar and the whole action from part 35 to 64 in the manual exploded view, all that stuff out of the way. Then the sear and spring can be pinned in place, the spring pulled back and easily held down cause there is tons of room. Slide the ejector on to the safety bar and when everything is in position, just let the spring fall into the notch.

                          I am not really interested in all that at this juncture. I'm pushing on down this path I have hacked through the jungle a bit more before I change course.


                          Thanks a ton for the pictures of the sear spring orientation and the sear. It is a huge help to know 100% for certain I have it in the correct position and pushing the right direction on the sear, and that I identified the anchor point. I could not find any diagrams or a single image that could clarify those absolutely critical details.
                          The meaning of life: To be happy and useful.

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                            #14
                            ​ Got some help getting my sear re-installed
                            Attached Files
                            Last edited by Letereat; 08-13-2020, 09:47 PM. Reason: picture clarity
                            The meaning of life: To be happy and useful.

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                              #15
                              A failed attempt to transition from a punch to the pin from left to right..

                              but ohhhhh so close
                              holding my breath.jpg
                              Last edited by Letereat; 08-15-2020, 05:56 PM. Reason: text
                              The meaning of life: To be happy and useful.

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