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    How much cleaning for a new gun?

    Bought a new 380CC today at my LGS. Nickle finish, although I feel that would be too obvious for coat-pocket carry. Maybe I'll put some black friction tape up the backstrap and over the back corners of the slide to tone it down... They wanted $30 more for the matte black finish, and the decocker on their black gun was much stiffer than either nickle gun in stock, so those were good excuses to get the one I think is prettier! Just got home with it.

    Looking back at some OLD threads (I started with page 223 and worked backwards a few pages yesterday) I see a lot of comments about cleaning factory lube out of new guns. How much do you go at them and how? Certainly I'll pull a couple of patches through the bore at very least, and get a little CLP on the rails, but at first glance it looked pretty dry on the outside. I'll get the slide off in a bit and see if I have to eat those words.
    S&WK22 Marlin39A S&W27,686 Rm788 MkIITarget ColtPPS GP-100 EAAWitness Redhawk S&W19-3 Rossi92 EAAHunter Marlin60 MkIVLite 10/22Carb CZp-01 DWpm9

    #2
    Pull the grips and field strip the pistol. Clean off everything you can touch with rags, q-tips, brushes etc. Get yourself a can of non-chlorinated brake cleaner and spray everything down. This should remove all the factory goo. You also should pay good attention to the slide. Clean the firing pin channel and get under the extractor. Whether you choose to take out the firing pin or not (I would) is up to you. Both my bersas were so full of the goo, I ended up having to soak it and run it through an ultrasonic bath to get it all. Others reported the was very little to none at all on the pistol.

    When you are satisfied, grab your favorite gun lube and lube the pistol.

    In memory of our Founder, Michael T. June 15, 1946 - February 26, 2017.

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      #3
      Since you have a nickel finish, conventional wisdom is to stay away from Hoppe's No. 9. The ammonia ingredient can affect the copper layer that the nickel sits on. There are gun owners who poo-poo this warning, but it's your new baby....and safer, effective solvents are plentiful.

      http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-rev...el-finish.html
      Never give the devil a ride. He will always want to drive.

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        #4
        No Hoppes No 9 on nickel? Hadn't heard that before.
        Certified Armed Infidel

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          #5
          I think I have a tiny old bottle of the *original* Hoppe's #9 somewhere, made back when they still put nitrobenzene in it. Almost empty so I was keeping it as a toxic museum piece, not for use.

          In recent years I was mostly using Ballistol, which seems very benign. I also have a bottle of Boretech Eliminator in case I suspect copper fouling in the barrel. I should probably keep that stuff away from the nickle on the slide.

          Recently I got a bottle of Breakfree CLP. I pulled a patch anointed with that through the bore of the Bersa. Didn't get much out but it and the subsequent dry patch were very slightly dirty.

          My gun didn't seem to have any detectable "goo" on it. I didn't take the grips off since I didn't have a decent screwdriver within arm's reach of the TV, but the slide and frame rails seemed dry and clean to me. I put a little CLP on the slide and rails and called it good for now. I may get to the range for an hour today to see how it goes.

          I am NOT someone with a love for cleaning guns. One thing I love about my Ruger MkIIs is that they can look like they are half-filled with sewage and continue running and shooting well. I clean them every thousand rounds or so, when they finally start being less than 100% reliable. (And it's not that I'm afraid of taking down a MkII ;) I've watched the right two videos on YouTube and it usually goes very smoothly, even the re-installation of the mainspring assembly!) How are the Bersas in this regard? Do they require frequent cleaning or can they shrug off some residue?
          S&WK22 Marlin39A S&W27,686 Rm788 MkIITarget ColtPPS GP-100 EAAWitness Redhawk S&W19-3 Rossi92 EAAHunter Marlin60 MkIVLite 10/22Carb CZp-01 DWpm9

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            #6
            Originally posted by groberts View Post
            No Hoppes No 9 on nickel? Hadn't heard that before.
            Google it. It's a common concern. Some say it's a big problem and others seem to get away with it. Might be best to be cautious with any cleaner that contains ammonia or the like.
            S&WK22 Marlin39A S&W27,686 Rm788 MkIITarget ColtPPS GP-100 EAAWitness Redhawk S&W19-3 Rossi92 EAAHunter Marlin60 MkIVLite 10/22Carb CZp-01 DWpm9

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              #7
              Iíll do a general field strip cleaning/de-gunking before shooting but otherwise, I donít stress over things. I quickly got away from the routine of hardcore cleaning after each range session following separation from active duty back in Ď01, and all of my firearms still function perfectly fine if Iím not making sure Q-Tips come out clean. Others who served know exactly what Iím talking about, especially fellow grunts and other combat arms MOSís!

              Anyway, I donít use anything for cleaning but old-fashioned hot, soapy water and CLP. Has worked great since Ď89 so donít see the need to change when it still works. Hardheaded, I know!!!

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                #8
                Hot soapy water is an often overlooked and underrated cleaner.

                On the rare occasion anymore that I screw together a race engine, everything gets scrubbed in hot soapy water.

                Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

                "The kindest, most sensitive guy on the entire internet."

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                  #9
                  Here is a thought. Get a small plastic bottle, fill it with mineral spirits and drop the Bersa slide it it for a few minutes followed by a soft tooth brush scrub. Wipe it down and blow it out with compressed air followed but CLP. Depress the firing pin from the rear and spray in a little CLP and blow it out as oil setting up in that chamber/slot is to be avoided. Every once in a while do the mineral spirits and CLP thing on the magazines too.

                  The frame gets the mineral spirits scrub and CLP as well.The barrel, only, gets brushed and patched with Hoppes # 9.

                  Except for the Hopps inside the barrel, no caustic chemicals ever (most particularly brake cleaner) on any type of gun finish. I had a nickel plated Luger, back in the day, that Hopps did a real job on. Not good.

                  BTW: Don't discount that old lube standbys 3in1 Oil or WD40. Talk about saving big bucks.
                  Last edited by tarheelcracker; 12-30-2018, 04:51 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    No one mentioned stripping the magazines?
                    That goo gets down in the mags and can cause drag on the spring. So popping the mag apart and cleaning it is good prevention and you shouldn't need to repeat the mag cleaning for several thousand rounds.

                    Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by cgchad View Post
                      No one mentioned stripping the magazines?
                      That goo gets down in the mags and can cause drag on the spring. So popping the mag apart and cleaning it is good prevention and you shouldn't need to repeat the mag cleaning for several thousand rounds.

                      Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk
                      Good point. I clean my mags more often than that though. I use a shotgun bore mop in them and they're squeaky clean in a few seconds.

                      Sent from Texas, to space & back for your entertainment.

                      "The kindest, most sensitive guy on the entire internet."

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                        #12
                        I just bought a new CC. I took the slide off and cleaned it with a toothbrush soaked in Gunzilla. I then ran a swab with Gunzilla down the barrel a few times, and cleaned the outside of the barrel and the magazines also. I oiled the rails, the decocker/safety and any other area of the slide that contacts metaI. I wiped off the outside of the gun upon reassembly. I took it to the range and put 200 rounds downrange with nary a problem.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          My "quick-clean" technique is to remove the grips (you can also disassemble & do the mags at this time also if you're so inclined) and put the parts in a tap water-hot/Simple Green cleaner bath for about 15 minutes, swishing it around occasionally, and maybe use an old toothbrush to clean a bit more thoroughly. Next, rinse and then soak everything in hot tap water for a few minutes to get all the Simple Green off. Put the parts on a few sheets of newspaper for a couple minutes in several orientations to help drain as much water as possible.
                          This next step is a bit of a safety issue, so I won't recommend it, but it's what I do. Although I have done this with the plastic grips, I wouldn't recommend it. Besides, the grips are easy to dry w/ a paper towel. When the wife isn't looking, I will put down a few sheets of paper (to keep from possibly contaminating the toaster pan), turn the toaster oven to only 200 deg. F. (paper burns at about 450 deg. F.), set to "convection" if you have it, and warm for about 15 minutes or until thoroughly dry (for safety, I remain in the room during this time). I then use a small spray bottle to lightly spritz the whole pistol w/ my lube oil while it's still warm out of the toaster oven and let it soak/drain for a few minutes. At this point, it's very handy to use an air gun to blow out all the excess oil (CAUTION - avoid breathing aerosol/fumes especially if not using Gunzilla, which is non-toxic). Otherwise, wipe as much oil off as possible. What you want to end up with is just a very thin film of oil; the parts should not appear "wet", just a bit shiny. With the grips off and the hammer down, you can pull the top of the SA sear forward enough to put just a thin film of grease on that and the small DA sear release towards the right of the SA sear. I also put just a dab of grease on the rails and on the outside of the barrel at the muzzle end. Reassemble, swab the bore w/ a clean patch, wipe off any excess, and you should be ready to go. If at all possible, live-fire test before putting it in your carry rotation/holster, etc.

                          I use the small needle oiler bottles from Brownell's and Gunzilla all-purpose lube, non-toxic and works better for me than Hoppe's # 9 for cleaning bores. The small oiler dispenses only a very small drop at a time and even that is generally more than needed. It usually takes at least a month for me to use up about 1 oz. and I'm working on firearms almost daily. I use Brownell's moly-disulfide gun grease for sear surfaces, rails, and a few other high-wear areas. For oil or grease, just enough to provide a very light film - it should not look "wet".

                          Like you, I don't really enjoy cleaning my firearms and usually put them away as-fired. Mostly, I'm looking for rust - I live in NW Oregon and often pocket-carry (not recommended).

                          Whenever I work on a firearm, I always test-fire it even if I've only changed out the grips screws and leave it like that. I've had a very few negative comments about this practice, but my reasoning is that firing a few rounds of non-corrosive ammo thru a basically clean firearm and putting it away uncleaned will not in any way damage it and I KNOW it worked when I put it away. Otherwise, what if I somehow mis-assemble it so that it doesn't function? I might only find out at a most inopportune time.
                          Wolfgang - The Gun Doctor
                          http://www.wolfgangthegundoctor.com/
                          Tel: (503)429-7342
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